You’ll need two gauges of wire: 20 gauge round or square half-hard wire for the chain links and 18 gauge round or square dead soft or half-hard wire for the toggle clasp. You can use any type of metal you want. I used sterling silver filled for the above anklet and the necklace at the end.
- Ruler in centimeters
- 6 step up pliers
- Round nose or chain nose pliers
- Flush cutters
- Bench block
- Hammer – ball peen or chasing
MAKING THE CHAIN
Step 1 – cut wire (about 22mm long)
Step 2 – Using second mandrel (next diameter from the smallest) on step up pliers, create a loop on one end of wire
Step 3 – “Break the neck” by turning the P into an eye pin
Step 4 – Bend straight end of wire at a 90° angle, using your round or chain nose pliers.
Step 5 – Using the smallest diameter of step up pliers, create another loop, perpendicular to the first loop. You don’t want your loops flat as the links will not lie flat on the skin.
Step 6 – Form the chain. Opening up the larger of the two loops, link the larger loop into the smaller loop in the next link. Continue to do this with all of the links until you have the length you want.
MAKING THE TOGGLE CLASP
Creating the Eye
Step 1- Working from your spool of 18 gauge wire, leave about a 3/4 inch tail, and wrap the wire around the fourth mandrel on your step up pliers until you have completed the circle.
Step 2- Straighten the wire coming from your spool
Step 3- Wrap the 3/4 inch tail around the base of your circle.
Step 4- Now, using the second diameter of step up pliers, bend a loop.
Step 5- Cut where the spooled wire meets the backside of the loop. This is the eye portion. (See fig. E1 & E2)
Finish by adding the eye portion of the toggle to your chain. (Fig. E3)
Creating the Bar
Step 6- Measure and cut 3cm of 18 gauge wire and file both ends
Step 7- Find the center and make a tiny loop.
Step 8- Using your hammer 🔨 and bench block, flare both ends of the wire. You may need to file the ends again.
Finish by adding the bar to the other end of your chain.
You can soften the edges of your chain links and polish the toggle by placing them in a tumbler if you have one.
To save time on your chain links, make several in each of the steps. Example: I will cut about 20-30 pieces of wire, then move to the next step, and so on.